gregory chen (6 months ago )
I can’t wait to return to try the rest of their menu.
Taliwang is a place in Lombok, Indonesia. As with any culture with a tradition, its crafts, practices and food demonstrate a range developed over time that eventually displays a variety of components that is complex yet accessible.
Taliwang Restaurant understands this need to find balance in the variety it serves. Led by a new team since early 2023, Taliwang now also boasts a focused menu with the same high quality food we expect of Lombok tradition, complete with a heady mix of treats that span the palate’s gamut.
I had 3 dishes. The first was terung sambal balado, a tender brinjal dish topped with a bright, spicy chilli paste. Next was Bebek Bakar Sambal Ijo, Indonesian style duck confit served with a delectable, piquant green chilli dip. Ditching duck fat and butter in the French version, Taliwang’s take sang on my teeth, tongue and nose with warm spices and herbs to a surprisingly lasting finish. But the star was its Tahu Telur — the neutral, fritter-like mound of bean curd and egg was delivered under a generous, balanced drizzle that balanced sweet, spicy and sour, laced with a tantalising hint of bitter and savoury from fermented bean and prawn pastes. None of the dishes bear the same look, taste, smell or mouth-feel, unlike some zichar (local Chinese stir-fry) outfits. Those who have a low threshold for chilli heat may wish to ask for milder recommendations, which the staff are ready to offer.
I finished with Cendol, a traditional favourite of split pea jelly and red beans in a rich, sweet coconut cream. It was a lovely end to a meal but would have been even better if a more fragrant palm sugar had been incorporated. The meal cost me just over $50 and, served with rice, would have easily satisfied two diners.
Taliwang is modern and casual but respectful of tradition. Head chef Erwin fully appreciates the value of freshness in its produce but more clearly demonstrates a mastery of time and temperature in his technique. My hosts, Din and Hanisha, didn’t disappoint, sharing their knowledge with Asian warmth and generosity. Thank you for a comfortable and enjoyable time.